Occlusive, Humectant, Emollient: Three Skincare Words Explained

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Moisturizer labels and reviews lean on three words: occlusive, humectant, and emollient. They describe what an ingredient does, not where it comes from. Here’s what each one means, in plain terms.

Humectants: ingredients that draw in water

A humectant attracts and holds water. On skin, humectants pull water into the outer layer, mostly from deeper layers of skin and sometimes from humid air.

• Glycerin
• Hyaluronic acid
• Urea
• Honey
• Sorbitol

Dermatology references note that humectants are often paired with an occlusive, which helps keep that water from simply evaporating.

Occlusives: ingredients that slow water loss

An occlusive forms a thin, water-repelling layer on the surface of the skin. That layer slows the water in your skin from evaporating.

• Petrolatum
• Mineral oil
• Beeswax and plant waxes
• Lanolin
• Dimethicone
• Fatty acids such as stearic acid, found in many fats

Occlusives tend to work best on slightly damp skin. The tradeoff some people notice is a heavier, richer feel.

Emollients: ingredients that soften and smooth

An emollient helps skin feel softer and smoother by filling in the tiny gaps between cells on the surface.

• Plant oils, such as jojoba and castor oil
• Butters, such as shea butter
• Squalane
• Ceramides

Why the categories overlap

Many ingredients do more than one job, so the same one can show up under different headings. Oils, butters, and fats often soften the surface and slow water loss at the same time. That’s why moisturizers usually combine more than one type.

Where a water-free balm fits

A balm contains no water, so it doesn’t add water to your skin on its own. It’s made of oils, butters, fats, and sometimes waxes, which places it on the emollient and occlusive side. That’s also why many people apply a balm to slightly damp skin, right after a shower or washing their hands.

For more on why some products skip water entirely, read why a balm has no water in it.

Most Reyic balms are grass-fed tallow and olive oil, handmade in the USA. The tallow softens with the warmth of your skin, and the olive oil helps it spread.

Reading a label with these words in mind

• Humectants like glycerin often appear in water-based lotions and creams
• Occlusives and emollients make up most of a balm or ointment
• These words describe function, not quality. No single type is better on its own

FAQ

Is a humectant the same as a moisturizer?

No. A humectant is one type of ingredient. A moisturizer is a finished product, and it usually combines humectants with emollients, occlusives, or both.

Is petrolatum an occlusive or an emollient?

It’s usually listed as an occlusive. Dermatology references describe it as one of the most effective at slowing water loss, though some people find it greasy.

Where should I start with Reyic?

Start with Au Naturel, the unscented jar, or compare every balm in the grass-fed tallow balm collection.

To see these terms in practice, read why an occlusive balm suits dry, cracked hands, or try Au Naturel.